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Domaine de la Bonne Tonne, under the dynamic leadership of Anne-Laure Grillet and Thomas Agatensi, the 7th generation winemakers, showcases a profound devotion to expressing the best climats of Beaujolais. Stepping in from 2019, the couple imbues their commitment to organic farming principles, a legacy commenced in 2003, attaining certification in 2006, and adopting biodynamic practices in 2007. The domain spans 6.5 hectares, with substantial holdings in Morgon and Regnié and a small parcel devoted to Beaujolais Blanc.
Thomas, previously a solar panel engineer, brings a blend of new insights and traditional knowledge, influenced by esteemed local winemakers such as Jean-Louis Dutraive and Paul-Henri Thillardon. The wines are made with indigenous yeast and a minimal dosage of SO2 prior to bottling. The vinification process involves whole-cluster grapes, cooled and then subjected to semi-carbonic maceration, followed by an 8-9 month maturation in 600 L foudres.
Prominently, the Cote du Py vineyard, located atop an extinct volcano, encapsulates the quintessence of Beaujolais terroir. Vines rooted in decomposed schist yield complex, minimal intervention wines that exhibit gamay's juicy intensity alongside fine, laser-like minerality. Here, autumnal flavors mingle with vibrant cherry and raspberry notes.
The Chardonnay from their small clay-based plot is distinctive, offering a balanced blend of citrus and mineral notes with a hint of toast and vanilla. As for their Morgon holdings, Bonne Tonne's vineyards in Les Charmes, Les Grands Cras, and Côte du Py demonstrate unique expressions, featuring blackberry, floral accents, and ample acidity.
The journey to organic certification was transformative for Domaine de la Bonne Tonne, having renounced chemicals in the late '90s. The vines, which had initially relied on chemical inputs, eventually flourished, producing more robust fruits. The organic certification recognizes the painstaking care invested in the vineyard, such as manually removing weeds instead of using pesticides.
Ambitiously, Anne-Laure and Thomas are now striving for Demeter biodynamic certification, having practiced biodynamics since 2007. This advanced approach involves following lunar and stellar phases, weather patterns, and using plant-based preparations to enrich the soil and create a self-sustaining ecosystem.
The philosophy of Domaine de la Bonne Tonne is rooted in low-intervention vinification and preservation of terroir expression, demonstrated by their refusal of thermovinification and minimal sulfur use. This dedication results in a portfolio of wines that are uniquely delicious and characteristically expressive of Beaujolais.
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