xCellar direct releases from Emidio Pepe

Trying to sum up Emidio Pepe is a bit of a fool’s errand, for the man and his wines deserve every superlative you could think of. Legendary, iconoclastic, immortal - each would be appropriate, given his stated quest to (successfully) make one of the world’s greatest reds.

Given all the praise, it’s perhaps unsurprising to discover fastidious attention to detail at every step of the production process - genetically diverse old vines, organic farming, native ferments, and lots of hard work by hand in the vineyards and cellar. The same techniques wouldn’t be out of place in tonier wineries, but how many other producers hold back at least half of their production for further aging? A quick scan of the roughly 350,000 bottles slowly evolving at the estate in Torano Nuovo gives you a glimpse into understanding Pepe’s quixotic and visionary quest. Fresh bottlings from younger plantings can be found in Italy, but winery-matured vintages crafted from the oldest vines carry the Vecchie Vigne designation, guaranteeing provenance. Each successive release confirms Pepe’s insistence that Montepulciano stands tall among the world's great wines.

We’ve just received tiny amounts of these transcendent bottlings, all released from the winery over the last two years. Standouts in this offering are undoubtedly vintages like 2014, 2002 and 1982, which show extraordinary elegance and are built for the long haul, with a structured core of acidity and sapid fruit tannin. Notable also are the particular favorites of the Pepe family: the 2000 and 2001 vintages, both at an evolutionary apogee, showing more generous dark cherry fruit on top of savory earth, leather, and tobacco.

Alongside grilled dishes and winter game, there are few better pairings that come to mind.