Chassagne-Montrachet is currently having a moment, in no small part due to the attention paid to the scintillating wines of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Structured and intense, these wines became instant classics for Burgundy lovers and brought renewed fame to their home village. Just a few doors down, you'll find another touchstone, Domaine Michel Niellon - home to effusive, elegant wines that have consistently been benchmark bottlings for Chassagne, and whose namesake winemaker quietly carried the torch for nearly half a century. There are few better exemplars of this village's striking complexity and quality. Stylistically, these wineries may be a study in contrasts, but their most recent vintages are (unsurprisingly) top-notch efforts, showcasing the vibrant, succulent fruit and stony minerality of Chassagne. These are perfect bottles to turn to for finesse, charm and ageability, whether you like your chardonnay taut or ready to drink now. Either way, you can't miss the stupendous 2020 vintage - these wines are In Stock and ready to ship now!

Few winemakers have experienced as meteoric a rise as Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Alongside the incredible talents and holdings of his wife, Caroline Morey, the pair founded their own domaine in 2003, after years of working for their respective family wineries. From the moment they opened their doors, the wines of PYCM (as they are known colloquially) turned into must-buys, sought out for their purity and composition, and now mentioned in the same breath as other elite Burgundians. From their cellar in Chassagne, they produce an incredible array of wines, largely from their estate vineyards in the village, Puligny-Montrachet and St. Aubin. At the cellar door, their rigorous methods continue, with whole clusters undergoing long, soft pressings, natural fermentations, and an extended elevage on the lees in demi-muids. Reductive winemaking has become their telltale style, ensuring a long evolution. Laser-focused, dense and coiled, PYCM wines flatter their distinctive terroirs in their inimitable style. Their Chassagne bottlings touch on nearly every important premier cru, but today we are thrilled to offer two of their extremely limited sub-parcels, which are nearly impossible to find outside a handful of the greatest restaurants in the world. The 1er cru Abbaye de Morgeot Cuvee Clement et Emma is a particular favorite, culled from vines near the Abbaye, which is itself a subdivision of greater Morgeot. Powerful and chiseled, with bright citrus fruit and sweet tarragon, there is a rise in intensity and texture from the "normal" cuvee. At the other end of the village, PYCM produces three stunners from En Remilly, both in Chassagne, and from vines in the contiguous St. Aubin portion, which birthed the 1er Cru En Remilly Cuvee Nicholas et Mathis. Sitting mid-slope, overlooking Chevalier-Montrachet, this shows more pronounced chalk and citrus oil notes than the regular bottling. Both cuvees are truly stunning in 2020, a vintage Pierre-Yves has lauded for "frank and precise wines," particularly the chardonnays, whose "balance seems simply magnificent."

A very short way away, Domaine Michel Niellon turned out an equally impressive lineup this vintage, with expressive and open-knit chardonnays. Now under the steady hand of Michel's son-in-law Michel Coutoux, who has stayed true to his father-in-law's signature methods, these wines begin their lives in steel, before moving to oak (including about a third new) for malo and elevage. They are mostly bottled after 12 months of aging. As at PYCM, there is generally no batonnage, with richness solely coming from the sunny Chassagne fruit, creamy oak, and time on the lees. As a counterpoint, harvests at Domaine Niellon are generally the first in the village, bringing freshness to the wines. Old vines and low yields invite complexity and texture; and overall, these wines have an engaging richness, while remaining poised. The crown jewel of the domaine is their 28 rows of vines in Puligny's Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet. Michel planted the vines himself in 1970, using small explosives to break the rocky soil. Mineral, extracted and aromatic, these wines always shows incredible presence and cut. 1er Cru Les Chaumees Clos de la Truffiere is a close second, with 80-year-old vines sitting high up on the slope, this is Michel's favorite vineyard. Combined with the incredibly rocky soils, this is a wine of intensity; its richness is met with an equally chalky expression. 1er Cru Les Vergers is situated just downslope, with deeper soils of clay and gravelly limestone, for riper fruit flavors, a plusher texture and fine acidity. 1er Cru Clos St. Jean, located near the quarry at the top of the slope, is a consistent standout for the domaine – fleshy and nuanced, with great length. Nearby, the old vines of the tiny 1er Cru Clos de la Maltroie offer a more elegant frame this vintage, with precise fruit and firm, chalky acids. Their Bougogne Blanc comes from young vines planted near the winery, and is already outperforming its humble status - with an incredible QPR, it offers up citrusy brightness and astonishing length.

Whether you opt for the young guns, the old guard, or both, you can't go wrong with any of these masterful renditions of Chassagne-Montrachet!

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