xEnvinate: Heroic Whites from the Canary Islands

Since their founding in 2005, the wines of Envinate have repeatedly been acclaimed as some of the most exciting in the world. There is an incredible sense of discovery within each bottle, and it remains shocking how, even after two decades, these wines continue to be so vibrant, so nakedly transparent to the wild places where the grapes grow, and so undeniably revelatory. They’ve built their reputation on ferreting out the distinctive parcels of Atlantic Spain, both in Galicia, as well as in the Canary Islands, and have helped turn these outlying and once-obscure regions into must-have bottlings essential for any serious wine lover. Today’s offer focuses on expansive whites from Tenerife, the central island and largest wine producer in the small chain off the coast of Morocco. Unique, soulful, transportive and irrefutably delicious, these wines are never-miss delights. In Stock now, but I don’t expect our stash to last very long!

2019 Envinate Taganan Blanco – 94 WA
2020 Envinate Palo Blanco – 98 WA
+ a few mags

Envinate is the brainchild of four winemaker friends, driven to explore the breath of Spanish viticultural history, from Ribeira Sacra to Extremadura. The Tenerife wines are particularly anachronistic, with a seemingly endless list of varieties and truly herculean efforts needed in the vineyards. All work is done by hand, an absolute necessity for these plots of high elevation grapes scattered across the inclines of a 12,000 foot volcano, where slopes can be above 60 degrees. Depending on the parcel, vines may be ungrafted, untrained or braided close to the ground in the traditional cordon trenzado, but no chemicals are used, as befitting an island where half the land is designated as a nature preserve.

Taganan Blanco is the quintessential bottling of their Canary wines, with 15 growers providing the fruit from the cooler but humid and windy northeast of the island, altitudes spanning from near sea level to 400 meters above, and vines ranging in age from 50-150 years old. It’s a blend of indigenous, unidentified and classically Spanish varieties – a non-exhaustive list would include Listan Blanco, Marmajuelo, Albillo Criollo, Forastera Gomera, Vijariego Blanco, Malvasia, and from Portugal’s nearby Madeira, Gual and Verdello. Listan Blanco, also known as Palomino, finds a special focus here in Tenerife, shedding its "neutral" grape identity, and offering up saline and citrus laden wines. After harvest, the grapes are destemmed, foot trod and fermented with native yeasts. Aging takes place mostly in large old oak, with a smaller percentage in 350 liter barrels. Citrus and sea spray dominate the nose and palate, with herbs and yellow fruits supporting the dense texture. Screaming acidity dovetails with the incredibly mineral core and the long, vibrant finish.

In contrast, Palo Blanco is entirely Listan Blanco, sourced from 1.5 hectares across five plots of hundred-plus-year-old vines in the central Valle de la Orotava. The braided vines hug the black soils, filled with basalt rocks and volcanic sand, and the parcels, rising up to 850 meters, bring incredible freshness to the wine. Destemmed, the grapes are crushed into concrete tanks for natural fermentations, then mostly aged in foudres, with some in large oak barrels. Salty citrus dominates here as well, mingling with smoky pumice, petrichor and green fruits. Firm acidity frames the intense and textured fruit, and gives great length to the wine.

These are both exceptional whites you'll want to have on hand all summer!

2019 Envinate Taganan Blanco – 94 WA
“The 2019 Taganan Blanco from Envinate is made from a blend of many of the indigenous white grape varieties on the island, all hailing from old, untrained vines that grow along the ground and by the cliffs that overlook the Atlantic Ocean in this part of Tenerife. The 2019 vintage has turned out beautifully for this wine, offering up a deep and complex bouquet of tart orange, pink grapefruit, salty minerality, lemongrass, raw almond and a topnote of citrus peel. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, complex and minerally, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent acids and grip, fine focus and a long, beautifully balanced and energetic finish. First class juice.”

2020 Envinate Palo Blanco – 98 WA
“There is a smoky and spicy, flinty touch and a vibrant palate with a spark of acidity that makes the wine very long and tasty. This now plays in the major league.”