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2017 Keller G-Max Rheinhessen #907966281
97.1
Cellar Tracker
Based on 14 reviews
Reviews 96 points Vinous "Smoky, stony intensity on the nose anticipates the sense of pithy, palpably mineral-infused concentration exhibited inner-mouth. Lime and crabapple offer welcome bright, tart juiciness while staining the palate with the piquancy of their seeds; an impression reinforced by a bittersweet note of chewy almond skin. In an effort not to be outdone in vibrancy by its impressive Grosses Gewachs siblings; in particular, the Abtserde; this wine, too, shakes up the mouth as it deposits a nearly ineradicable array of smoky, stony, oily, alkaline and other, hard-to-name mineral traces. (DS)" 100 points John Gilman "The 2017 G-Max from Weingut Keller is simply brilliant. Again, the inherent elegance of the vintage is very much in evidence here, with the wine showing magical minerality and lift from the short crop and the great quality of the growing season. The youthful nose offers up scents of pink grapefruit, tart orange, a touch of lemongrass, gentle notes of wild yeasts, a very refined base of limestone soil elements, a nice dollop of smokiness and an exotic topnote of spiced meats. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and racy, with a great core, outstanding focus and grip and impeccable balance on the very long, vibrant finish. There is a sense of seamless electricity and endless backend lift in the 2017 G-Max that is simply amazing. (JG)"
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