As the epitome of Gattinara's viticulture, Nervi-Conterno stands as a beacon of excellence in Piedmont, Italy. Founded in 1906 by Italo Nervi, the winery holds a respected place as the oldest in Gattinara. Its rich vineyard holdings encompass 28.5 hectares, including the esteemed crus Molsino, Valferana, Garavoglie, and Casacce, boasting a heritage dating back to the 13th and 15th centuries, respectively.
After two significant ownership changes - to Germano Bocciolone in 1991 and to a Norwegian group led by wine enthusiast Erling Astrup in 2011 - the winery was purchased by Roberto Conterno in 2018. He, a custodian of the Piedmontese wine legacy and a third-generation winemaker from the Conterno family, brought an unwavering commitment to enriching the estate's reputation.
The winery concentrates on three Gattinara bottlings: Gattinara, Gattinara Molsino, and Gattinara Valferana. Gattinara Valferana, the oldest recorded vineyard in the region with documentation dating back to 1231, sprawls over 8 hectares. The vineyard sits at an altitude of 360 meters, imbued with volcanic soil. The conditions here allow the Nebbiolo grapes to express vibrant red fruit aromas laced with nuances of cloves and black olives. The cooler, open west-facing slopes bestow an elegance and minerality to the wine, an aspect that greatly complements the robust power of its sister vineyard, Molsino.
Gattinara Molsino, a south-facing amphitheater revered since the 15th century, presents quite a different terroir. The higher altitude of 530 meters and extended exposure to sunshine facilitate quicker ripening and hence, an earlier harvest. Although Molsino shares the same volcanic soil as Valferana, its contrasting climatic conditions result in a wine with an intensity that mirrors the boldness of Barolo. Its reputation for producing Gattinara wines of power and finesse is deeply ingrained in Piedmont's viticulture.
The Gattinara blend encompasses superior fruit from Garavoglie and Casacce, with wine declassified from Molsino and Valferana. Aged for at least three to four years in large oak casks, these wines articulate the subtle nuances of Gattinara's terroir. The estate also crafts an enticing rosato from Nebbiolo with a dash of Uva Rara.
As the wines of Nervi-Conterno continue their journey under the meticulous and passionate guidance of Roberto Conterno and his sons, they present the allure of age-worthy, pure, and traditional expressions of Nebbiolo. These wines speak to the soul of Piedmont and are a testimony to the magical potential that Gattinara, often overshadowed by more prominent appellations, genuinely holds. For anyone with a love for Nebbiolo and its diverse terroir-expressions, the wines of Nervi-Conterno are a remarkable revelation.